
Jardim das Oliveiras is, as far as I know, Porto’s largest green roof — an oasis of 50 olive trees and lush grass on top of a semi-open gallery of shops, restaurants, and cafés with an underground parking garage. It’s a perfect urban park escape for city workers, tourists, and university students alike. Located on top of Praça de Lisboa, it’s my idea of urban planning gone right: green space co-existing with commerce, and vehicles below street level.
When I first visited Porto in June 2011, Praça de Lisboa was under construction and covered in advertising, which you can see part of in this picture. When I returned for a week in May 2013, it had opened to the public but the garden wasn’t finished until November, about six weeks after I arrived. The trees had just been planted, the grass and shrubs were still new. Today, Praça de Lisboa is one of the busiest squares in the city, with a pedestrian passage — Passeio dos Clérigos — through the middle of the building, linking Livraria & Lello bookshop to Clérigos Tower. (Note: the gates are locked at night.)

Interestingly, the original plans didn’t include the open roof over the pedestrian passage. Project developer UrbaClérigos revised the plan after the anchor store, a book shop called Byblos, went out of business. The retail space had to be divided, causing the whole project to be delayed. Porto architectural firm Balonas & Menanos redesigned the passage and opened it to the surroundings while keeping patrons sheltered from the elements. You can view the plans and project here:
https://architizer.com/projects/praca-de-lisboa/

Personally, I always prefer open roofs and skylights because artificial lighting affects people’s moods. As a photographer, I’m biased towards natural light. Being able to see Clérigos Tower all the way from Rua das Carmelitas through the passage has given me some of my favourite photos of Clérigos.

In a previous life, Praça de Lisboa was called Mercado de Anjo. In a previous previous life, it was a garden and one of the city’s ancient gates called Porta da Olival, which is a major reason the architects decided to plant olive trees on the green roof. The City of Porto is the square’s landlord in charge of the garden lighting and water for irrigation. UrbaClérigos has a 50-year lease from the City for the commercial space and maintenance, including landscaping. Just so you know who to complain to if you see something awry… Jardim das Oliveiras is a treasured space that should last for a long time.
I shot all of these photos on April 6, the first two from the first floor of Clérigos Church, the rest from the top of Clérigos Tower.
Further reading:
Architect blog Senses of Portugal (January 12, 2015): An Example of Happy Marriage
Sources:
Público (January 17, 2012): Praça de Lisboa rasgada por rua entre Clérigos e livraria Lello
Diario de Notícias (May 31, 2012): Requalificação da Praça de Lisboa chega ao fim
Público (November 15, 2013): Passeio dos Clérigos entrega jardim das oliveiras à Câmara do Porto
{ More photos in the Spring 2016 album. }


April 6, 2016
Album: Portugal [Spring 2016]
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I think that pedestrian passage is what saved it.
There was already a shopping area there before but wasn’t successful. In my opinion mostly because people would not find the appeal to go between Clérigos tower and Lello bookstore through it – and even above it, the pathway was not as nice.
Here’s a plan of what it looked like only 25 years ago: https://repositorio-tematico.up.pt/bitstream/10405/31982/3/RI-1991-205-1_2.png
Here’s also another photo of what it looked like before:
http://mjfs.spaceblog.com.br/120724/Praca-de-Lisboa-PORTO/
I always describe the Jardim das Oliveiras like this, “You know those architectural renderings that you stumble upon on and really want to visit only to find it was a concept design and never got made, well this one got made and it is better than expected.”
There’s a new square under construction downtown that I’d love to see the plans for (there’s a drone-shot video in the article):
http://www.jn.pt/local/noticias/porto/porto/interior/demolicoes-dao-nova-praca-publica-a-baixa-do-porto-4867089.html
oooooooo la la
Is this close to the Torre dos Clérigos? I remember seeing it when we were in Porto last summer.
Yes, all the photos in the post of this garden were taken from Torre dos Clérigos, from the top of it down to the first floor.
Beautiful Photos, and interesting info on how it was remodelled. The other praca (Dom 1) definitely hasn’t realised itself with the same success – its really not beautiful unfortunately. Anyway – Thanks am enjoying your blog
Thank you, William! That area is changing (there’s a huge construction site on the other side of the Palácio Atlântico and more renovations across the way), so I remain hopeful that the continued improvements will be the impetus for the rest of the neighbourhood to follow suit.
I don’t know if you’ve seen old photos of Praça de Dom João, but it was much more interesting before (’70s and prior?):
http://retratosdeportugal.blogspot.pt/2011/11/porto-praca-d-joao-i.html
I absolutely loved reading about Jardim das Oliveiras in Porto, and your description really brought its unique charm to life. The concept of creating a sprawling green oasis right atop a bustling gallery of shops and restaurants is simply brilliant.
It’s fascinating how you’ve chronicled the evolution of this green roof over time. From the construction phase to the eventual lush transformation, your personal experience adds a wonderful touch to the narrative. The blend of the old picture with the newer one, capturing the transition from advertising-covered construction to a vibrant urban park, is quite captivating.
I wholeheartedly agree with your sentiment about urban planning done right. The integration of green space with commercial establishments and an underground parking garage showcases a harmonious balance between human activity and nature. It sounds like a perfect retreat for a diverse crowd – from city workers seeking a breath of fresh air to tourists and students looking for a tranquil escape.